Kita

I came by bus. There's a bus stop called "Fujimi 4-chome" behind the corner of Kitano-yado. Alternatively, if you came via Cape Nochappu, you might find it easier to get off at "Wakkanai Onsen." A separate 100 yen hot spring tax is paid upon check-in. Even with online payment, please pay 100 yen per person in cash at the counter. None of the rooms face the sea, and even the sea-facing rooms have their views obstructed by the neighboring building. I hope you appreciate the solitude befitting the name Kitano-yado (Northern Inn). Next door is a small supermarket (a modern-day convenience store) that I heard is open until 9 PM. The staff were very kind, and I stocked up on items that were about to expire. Because transferring between public transport was difficult and I was short on time, I was surprised to see the sign lit up and realize they were open! You lay out your own futon in your room. Be sure to put a sheet underneath before sleeping. Naturally, you can hear from the next room, so the TV should be muted and subtitled. The layout is rather bleak, like something you'd find in a northern inn or guesthouse, and I imagine they'd complain endlessly to noisy guests. But for seasoned travelers, this is just how it is. I'd recommend this place to someone who truly loves Hokkaido. The toilet is on the first floor; you go downstairs, change into slippers, and use the facilities. For number two, there's a bidet with a paper sheet to sit on. It was a small toilet. The washroom is on the second floor, in the hallway. The bath is, of course, a hot spring and is open until the next morning. I believe the floor drains all converge in one place, so the water from everyone's (four people) showers flows around our feet. I went in early in the morning because I was tired, so there was no one there, but I think it could only comfortably accommodate two people at most. This time, I didn't eat dinner and was aiming for "Bakkai Station," so the next morning's departure from the mountain hut felt like climbing Mount Fuji in the early morning. The wind was so strong I felt like I might be blown away, and there were so many deer crossing the street! There must have been over 100! I saw a red fox playing and sleeping in the middle of the road; it was so used to humans (like a cat!). When I finally saw Bakka Station in the distance, the sun rose behind it...it was so moving. I thought to myself, I want to climb Mount Rishiri and see the sunrise from the summit! It was also my first time entering Wakkanai by Soya Bus on the Tenpoku-Soya Cape Line (the replacement bus for the former Tenpoku Line), which is being discontinued on the Okhotsk route, and only the northernmost post office is located at Cape Soya. I experienced all four seasons of Wakkanai. It's 15 kilometers to Bakka Station, and an average person would need at least four hours to walk it. I think there was the northernmost beach along the way...

The hot spring water is smooth and very warming. While there's no specific information, it may be heated. The food was also delicious, and even in peak season, two meals were a reasonable 7,200 yen. The sashimi was sumptuous and delicious, including shrimp, scallops, and rockfish. On the day, a plate of raw sea urchin was also included. The simmered black oyster flounder was also unusually large and thick. I was very satisfied with the hot spring and the food, and the reasonable price. On the day, it was crowded and only two people were allowed to stay in one room, but when available, they apparently offer one room per person for the same price. (P.S. 2023) After this, this became my regular lodging in Wakkanai, but in November 2022, the owner passed away, and it was no longer possible to accommodate large groups. I'm sure many people looked forward to dining here, but this places a burden on the landlady, so I ask for your understanding. Still, I stay here about 10 times a year. It's my favorite lodging in Hokkaido. (PS 2) In May 2024, the hardworking landlady suddenly passed away, and now her children and siblings are running the inn as a lodging without meals. If you prefer eating out or buying meals from convenience stores, please feel free to use our service.

It's a bit far to get there by car, just a short drive straight ahead, but you can see lots of deer along the way, making the journey feel like a safari park, which is fun. It's cool because it's in Wakkanai, so it's really comfortable. The building is old but incredibly clean, and you can tell that it's been carefully maintained and cherished. No one came to the bath, so I was able to relax and soak for a long time all to myself, which was fantastic. They also have yukata (Japanese robes), which is convenient. You brush your teeth at a shared sink, and you have to go through a shared area to get to the toilet, so I couldn't go if I was wearing light clothing, but it was fine because I had a yukata. It was quiet around, so I was able to sleep soundly. I was able to go to bed early and wake up early. The key is big and transparent, like candy, and really cute. I would like to stay there again.

This was a room-only stay. Since it has a hot spring, a 100 yen bathing tax is required. The building's floors creak a bit, but it's well-maintained and clean. You can hear sounds from the surroundings, such as doors opening and closing, but considering the price, it's acceptable. The bathroom has several changing baskets and multiple faucets, but the bathtub is only big enough for 2-3 people. No one came in while I was bathing, so perhaps they were being considerate. The spring water is thick and smooth. It's a little on the lukewarm side. The landlady is cheerful but kind. There are no supermarkets or convenience stores nearby, so you need to eat before you go. Next time, I would definitely like to stay with meals included.

We had plenty of seafood, and both breakfast and dinner were delicious. It was great that we could use the hot springs at any time. It was great that they were able to accommodate me, even when I was traveling alone, even during the off-season. Cape Noshappu is less than a 10-minute drive away, so I was able to go see it in the morning and evening. The beach is also nearby, and it seems like you can see the sunset and Mt. Rishiri Fuji if the weather's clear.